Food in Istanbul: A Practical Guide
It's easy to get Istanbul wrong. I learned this the hard way on my first morning, when I tried to order a simit from a vendor on Istiklal Caddesi, only to be handed a bag of dried figs instead. The vendor, a woman with a kind smile and flour-dusted apron, patiently explained that simit was the bread ring, not the dried fruit. I’d been so focused on the Instagrammable street food stalls that I’d missed the most basic detail: Istanbul’s food culture isn’t about quick bites—it’s about slow, deliberate moments, where every bite tells a story. My first real meal came at a tiny spot near the Spice Bazaar called Kızılcıklı. I’d seen it recommended in a guide, but I wasn’t expecting the place to be tucked away on a narrow alley off the main drag. The owner, a man named Mehmet, greeted me with a nod and a plate of fresh cheese and olives. The price? 12 TL for a small plate. I ordered the menemen, a Turkish scrambled eggs dish with tomatoes and peppers, for 25 TL. It arrived steaming, with...