Food in Florence: A Practical Guide
It's easy to get Florence wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first morning, when I lined up at a touristy trattoria near the Ponte Vecchio, expecting to find the real deal. Instead, I got a plate of overpriced, undercooked bistecca that cost €22 and tasted like it had been sitting in a microwave since breakfast. The waiter, sensing my disappointment, muttered, "You should go to Trattoria Mario instead," and I realized I'd been chasing the wrong kind of Florence. Trattoria Mario, a tiny spot tucked away on Via dei Neri, is where I finally tasted what I'd been missing. It's open only for lunch, from 12:30 to 3:00, and it's not on any map, just a hole-in-the-wall with red-checked tablecloths and a menu written in pencil on a chalkboard. I ordered the pappardelle al cinghiale, the wild boar pasta, for €12, and it was so good I had to order a second helping. The boar was slow-cooked to perfection, the sauce rich but not heavy, and the pasta had that per...